Belgium,
an Eldorado for Mammals

PLANET BELGIUM
Part 5: At the Edge of Glaciers, Humans

Mammals lived in the shadow of the dinosaurs until an asteroid crashed into Mexico 66 million years ago, causing the mass extinction of large, voracious creatures. It opened new opportunities for small, energy-efficient, milk-producing animals with fur, multifunctional teeth, and excellent hearing. They grabbed the chances with both hands and opposable thumbs. In our country, we find crucial traces of their conquest: fossils of the first primates (our ancestors!), of the earliest ancestor of your cat and dog, of whales that came here to calve millions of years ago, and of the very last Neanderthals and the first Homo sapiens who populated our regions. These hunter-gatherers felt at home around our limestone caves, on the mammoth steppe, and in the drowned land of "Doggerland".

Reinout Verbeke

PLANET BELGIUM,
the odyssey of our country

Our patch of land in the heart of Europe has been on an eventful journey that has taken around five hundred million years. A long time before it actually existed as a country, Belgium started out near the South Pole, crossed the equator and has docked – for the time being at least – in the Northern Hemisphere.

It was a voyage full of dramatic collisions that have made our country a geological El Dorado. Let's hitch a ride with geologists, palaeontologists and citizen scientists as they reconstruct the landscape and the life that once swam, crawled or flew in it. Get ready to go on the most in-depth journey through our country, in five parts. This is the last episode.

“It’s here.” Palaeontologist Thierry Smith and I park the car and walk down a sunken lane. We are in the rural village of Dormaal, part of the municipality of Zoutleeuw, between Tienen and Sint-Truiden. To our right, a field where the grain has just been harvested; to our left, an orchard with nearly ripe pears. This is Haspengouw, Belgium’s fruit-growing region. Apart from two large information boards, nothing suggests that world-class palaeontological discoveries have been made here over the past 143 years.

The fossils are spectacular, certainly, but not because of their size: tiny jawbones only a few centimeters long, along with teeth, bones, and vertebrae that can only be properly examined under a microscope. “Anyone who doesn’t appreciate the small things,” Thierry chuckles, “shouldn’t study mammals.” He is an expert on mammalian evolution and has just returned from an excavation mission in Wyoming’s Bighorn Basin, where rock layers of the same age, around 56 million years old, are exposed.

The discoveries there, and especially those here in Dormaal, have proved to be key pieces in understanding our history: fossils of the first “modern” mammals. By “modern,” we mean groups that still have living descendants today. “Archaic” mammals, by contrast, were groups that lived during the age of dinosaurs (the Triassic, Jurassic, and Cretaceous periods), and some survived for a while afterward, but ultimately wandered down evolutionary dead ends.

On this sunken lane in Dormaal, fossils of some of the earliest modern mammals have been discovered and studied by paleontologist Thierry Smith. (Photo: Reinout Verbeke, Institute of Natural Sciences)

On this sunken lane in Dormaal, fossils of some of the earliest modern mammals have been discovered and studied by paleontologist Thierry Smith. (Photo: Reinout Verbeke, Institute of Natural Sciences)

These early mammals were forced to remain small and unobtrusive among the ‘terrible reptiles’. Yet small size had its advantages. It saved energy, and they could more easily hide in self-dug burrows from predators. Burrows were also ideal places to hibernate, helping them survive seasons when food was scarce.

Mammals also underwent a major biological transition during the Triassic period: they developed an internal “furnace” and became warm-blooded. Fur helped them retain the heat they generated themselves. Warm-bloodedness, or endothermy, allows animals to remain active at night, a niche that cold-blooded reptiles, and even most dinosaurs of the time, occupied far less extensively. Because the night belongs to mammals... Life in the shadows was not so bad after all.

What makes a mammal a mammal, above all, is the presence of three middle-ear bones

Living at night meant that colour vision became less important, while a keen sense of smell became vital. Palaeontologists infer this from the relatively large olfactory lobes and changes in the snout and nasal region of early mammal-like animals. Natural selection also favoured better hearing in nocturnal creatures, enabling them to detect very quiet and high-frequency sounds.

To make this possible, a remarkable internal “relocation” took place. Two bones in the jaw joint gradually lost their original function, shrank, and migrated toward an existing ear bone, the stapes. They became the hammer and anvil of the middle ear, amplifying sound vibrations. A mammal is, above all, a mammal because it has three middle-ear bones. Reptiles never underwent this transformation. They largely kept the ancestral jaw bones, retained only a single ear bone, the stapes, and are generally less sensitive to high frequencies and faint sounds.

Among those mammalian ancestors that had developed additional ear bones, a new jaw joint evolved: one between the dentary (tooth-bearing bone) and the squamosal bone. The dentary now formed the entire lower jaw, which not only produced a stronger bite but also allowed for more precise chewing and grinding movements.

This anatomical reorganization of the jaw, which occurred through a series of transitional forms, roughly marks the transition from proto-mammals, such as the so-called cynodonts, to the first true mammals. The small Morganucodon, about the length of an index finger and known from fossils found in Wales and China, already possessed this modern mammalian jaw. For that reason, it is often regarded as one of the first true mammals. Even so, the animal remained archaic in many respects.

The evolution of the jaw joint, from proto-mammals such as Dimetrodon to modern mammals. Note the bones shown in dark green, purple, and orange: they evolved into the eardrum, malleus, and incus. The stapes was already present. (Illustration: Anthwal and Tucker, Wikimedia Commons)

The evolution of the jaw joint, from proto-mammals such as Dimetrodon to modern mammals. Note the bones shown in dark green, purple, and orange: they evolved into the eardrum, malleus, and incus. The stapes was already present. (Illustration: Anthwal and Tucker, Wikimedia Commons)

Important Cusps 

A dentition as versatile as a Swiss Army knife. Here, that of a raccoon. (Photo: Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens)

A dentition as versatile as a Swiss Army knife. Here, that of a raccoon. (Photo: Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens)

Geology often determines biology. The supercontinent Pangaea, when all the world’s landmasses were joined together, began to break apart during the age of the dinosaurs. In the centre, a rift opened at the end of the Triassic between North America and West Africa, forming the very earliest beginnings of the Atlantic Ocean. During the Jurassic, the Tethys Ocean emerged between Laurasia (Eurasia plus North America) and Gondwana (the rest of the world) in the south. Think of the Tethys as the Mediterranean Sea, but stretched all the way into Asia. In the Cretaceous period, Africa and South America finally drifted apart, creating the South Atlantic Ocean.

More oceans meant more coastline, less drought, and fewer desert-like landmasses than had existed during the Permian and Triassic. Flowering plants, or angiosperms, benefited enormously from these changes. During the Cretaceous they began to outcompete the older world of ferns, horsetails and gymnosperms, such as ginkgos and conifers. This was gefundenes Fressen for groups such as the multituberculates, those highly successful archaic mammals.

Multituberculates looked like mice or rats and moved and fed in similar ways, yet they were not rodents. Rodents evolved much later, after the dinosaurs, within the "modern" placental mammals. Multituberculates were grinding machines and champions at processing plant matter. Leaves, stems, flowers, buds, fruits, and roots all ended up on their menu. Their success was due in part to the large number of little cusps ("multi" and "tubercula") on their molars.

A multituberculate molar resembles a Lego brick. Multituberculates possessed a differentiated, or multifunctional, dentition. Three middle-ear bones are distinctive of true mammals, but so is a Swiss Army knife-like set of teeth. Incisors were used to bring food into the mouth or gnaw it off. Canines ripped or cracked food into pieces. The lower premolars moved up and down against those of the upper jaw, crushing and slicing the food. And, last but not least, everything was ground into a pulp by a rubbing motion between the cusped upper and lower molars.

By processing food this way, mammals digest it more rapidly, which is essential because maintaining an internal furnace consumes large amounts of energy. By processing food this way, mammals digest it more rapidly, which is essential because maintaining an internal furnace consumes large amounts of energy.

This was a major difference from reptiles. While mammals process food extensively in the mouth, many reptiles use their teeth mainly as gripping tools and swallow food soon afterward. Reptiles continually replace their teeth throughout life. Mammals, by contrast, must make do with only two sets: milk teeth and a permanent adult dentition. That is the price of a sophisticated chewing apparatus. Efficient cutting and grinding would have been impossible if the teeth had constantly been in different stages of growth.

The multituberculate Kryptobaatar, an early mammal from the Cretaceous, shown against a backdrop featuring the giant deer Megaloceros giganteus from the last Ice Age. (Photo: Thierry Smith, Institute of Natural Sciences)

The multituberculate Kryptobaatar, an early mammal from the Cretaceous, shown against a backdrop featuring the giant deer Megaloceros giganteus from the last Ice Age. (Photo: Thierry Smith, Institute of Natural Sciences)

Multituberculates were not the only successful group of mammals to arise during the age of dinosaurs. There were also early versions of the placental mammals (eutherians, our own group) and marsupials (metatherians), together known as the Theria. In addition, there were the monotremes, egg-laying animals that also produced milk, such as today’s platypus.

The molars of these ancestors of modern mammals were more sophisticated than the Lego-brick-like teeth of the multituberculates. They featured miniature peaks and valleys. The cusps of the upper molars fitted into the basins of the lower molars.

These so-called ‘tribosphenic’ molars performed two tasks in a single movement: tearing and grinding. Imagine pressing a pestle into a mortar while making pesto. Multituberculates still required two different types of teeth, premolars and molars, to achieve the same result.

A small modification in a molar made a world of difference, and modern mammals, including ourselves, owe much of their success and existence to it. The Theria - so placentals and marsupials - became far more capable of exploiting the rapidly expanding world of insects. Insects, important pollinators, diversified alongside flowering plants. The mammals, with their new teeth, capable of both tearing and grinding, could more easily access the nutritious parts of insects.

The peaks and valleys of such molars were also highly adaptable. Small changes in their shape allowed mammals to exploit new food sources when environments changed. Carnivores, such as your cat or dog, have sharper cusps on their molars that function like scissors for slicing meat. If you run your tongue over your own molars, you can feel that the cusps are less pronounced and the chewing surface broader, making them better suited to our omnivorous diet.

Show me your teeth, and I'll tell you what you eat... With a slightly different molar, you can occupy a different ecological niche. (Illustration created especially for this article by Melvin Vankelst, Institute of Natural Sciences; phylogenetic tree adapted from Yimeng Li et al., 2023, DOI: 10.1038/s41559-023-01982-5. Note: In the absence of a first molar, or a suitable scan of one, the second molar is shown instead, but the two are generally very similar.)

Show me your teeth, and I'll tell you what you eat... With a slightly different molar, you can occupy a different ecological niche. (Illustration created especially for this article by Melvin Vankelst, Institute of Natural Sciences; phylogenetic tree adapted from Yimeng Li et al., 2023, DOI: 10.1038/s41559-023-01982-5. Note: In the absence of a first molar, or a suitable scan of one, the second molar is shown instead, but the two are generally very similar.)

Proto-primates and proto-dogs

Artistic reconstruction of the proto-primate Teilhardina. (Dimitri Bogdanov, Wikimedia Commons)

Artistic reconstruction of the proto-primate Teilhardina. (Dimitri Bogdanov, Wikimedia Commons)

Hundreds of species from these early successful mammal groups, including multituberculates, monotremes, marsupials, and placentals, would witness the fateful day 66 million years ago. Researchers have even determined that it was a spring day (in the Northern Hemisphere), based on growth lines preserved in the fossilized bones of fish that died that very day.

The story is well known. An asteroid roughly the size of Brussels struck the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico, creating a crater roughly the size of Belgium. The impact triggered wildfires, earthquakes, tsunamis, and a persistent dust cloud that cooled the planet, halted photosynthesis, and wiped out three-quarters of all life in a geological instant. Among the dinosaurs, only a handful of bird species survived.

What is less well known is that nine out of every ten mammal species also perished. Mammals came frighteningly close to disappearing entirely. Every mammal alive after the catastrophe, including ourselves, owes its existence to a handful of survivors that crawled through the dust. They were probably small, omnivorous, and/or burrowing animals.

After 150 million years spent in the shadow of reptiles, it was finally time for mammals to shine. Mammals took over many of the ecological niches long occupied by triceratops, hadrosaurs, and T. rex, and they began to increase in size.

“Just 400,000 years after the asteroid impact, during the Paleocene, there were already 50-kilogram mammals the size of wolves, such as the carnivore Eoconodon,” says Thierry Smith. “Toward the end of the Paleocene, large herbivores appeared, such as the 500-kilogram Barylambda, about the size of a pony. This evolution went hand in hand with that of plants. Climate warming made flowering plants more diverse, including palms, nut trees, and legumes, all rich in energy.”

Placental mammals, in particular, grew larger. Their reproductive strategy offered advantages. Unlike marsupials and monotremes, the embryo develops inside the mother's body, nourished and protected by the placenta until it is born as a relatively large and well-developed young. Yet mammals were not the only survivors to produce giants during the ten million years after the apocalypse. There was Titanoboa, a snake up to thirteen meters long and weighing around a ton, and Gastornis, a two-meter-tall flightless herbivorous bird.

Although mammals became larger after the extinction of the dinosaurs, they did not immediately become smarter. Their brains remained relatively small in proportion to their body size. Perhaps they simply did not need large brains because so many ecological niches were available to them. What they clearly did invest in was movement. New ankle joints evolved in a wide variety of forms, enabling species to run, dig, and climb more effectively. They adapted to a remarkable diversity of environments and food sources.

56 million years ago. During the Eocene, Greenland and North America drifted away from Eurasia, giving rise to the North Atlantic Ocean. Meanwhile, India was on a collision course with Asia. (C.R. Scotese and GPlates)

56 million years ago. During the Eocene, Greenland and North America drifted away from Eurasia, giving rise to the North Atlantic Ocean. Meanwhile, India was on a collision course with Asia. (C.R. Scotese and GPlates)

The world was already warm in the aftermath of the dinosaurs’ extinction, but around 56 million years ago an additional and very abrupt episode of global warming occurred. The likely cause was the opening and expansion of the northern Atlantic Ocean. Volcanic activity along the Mid-Atlantic Ridge gradually separated North America and Greenland from Eurasia, a process that is still continuing today. The enormous quantities of CO₂ released into the atmosphere caused global temperatures to rise by another 5 to 8 degrees Celsius within just a few thousand years. Average temperatures reached around 34°C worldwide, roughly 40°C at the equator, and 25°C in the Arctic. Where there is now an icy Arctic Ocean, palm trees once grew. Palaeontologists call this episode the PETM, the Paleocene-Eocene Thermal Maximum.

“And this extremely hot world did not lead so much to extinction,” says Thierry Smith as we continue walking along the sunken lane in Dormaal, “but instead gave rise to a whole series of ‘modern’ placental mammals: primates, bats, carnivorous mammals, even-toed and odd-toed ungulates, rodents... They benefited from the warming and spread rapidly around the Northern Hemisphere via forested land bridges that connected Eurasia and North America.”

But where did this dynamic new generation suddenly come from? What was their common ancestor? “After 150 years of research, it remains a mystery. Personally, I think we should look for their cradle around India, back when that great landmass was still drifting toward Asia and had not yet created the Himalayas. We find the same species there as in Western Europe. Modern mammals may well have originated on the floating ‘island’ of India and migrated into Asia and Europe via temporary land bridges.”

Whatever their ultimate birthplace, it is in the gullies along this very sunken lane in Dormaal that palaeontologists have found some of the earliest modern mammals. During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, an eighty-centimeter-thick fossil-bearing layer was exhaustively searched by washing sandy sediments through fine-meshed sieves. In the late 1980s and early 1990s, citizen palaeontologist Richard Smith wet-sieved no fewer than 23 tons of sediment.

This coarse material had been washed from higher ground into a nearby sea some 56 million years ago, accumulating in a bend of a river near Dormaal. River bends also act as traps for dead organisms. The deposits revealed plant remains: spores, pollen, and pieces of wood. These showed that the riverbanks were densely vegetated, including plants related to pines, walnuts, and poplars. Grapevines climbed their trunks.

Nearby, around modern-day Hoegaarden, there were marshlands resembling those of the Louisiana delta around New Orleans, complete with swamp cypresses standing knee-deep in water. During excavations for the E40 motorway in 1970 and the high-speed railway in 2000, dozens of fossilized tree trunks were unearthed. Some can still be seen in situ at the Goudberg geosite near Hoegaarden.

“Belgium was truly subtropical at the time: warm and humid,” says Thierry. In the Dormaal paleo-river swam crocodiles, alligators, giant turtles, and fish, especially pike. The riverbanks and forests buzzed and chirped with life, populated by frogs, salamanders, geckos, birds, and the first representatives of virtually every mammal group alive today.

Most of the fossil discoveries consist of teeth, more than 14,000 of them, because teeth are composed of enamel, a tissue that is 96 percent mineralized and fossilizes far better than the rest of the skeleton. “From the number of teeth, the spacing between them, their shape, and other features, we can quickly determine whether an animal was a predator, scavenger, insectivore, omnivore, or grazer. The unique pattern of ridges and cusps acts like an identity card and tells us exactly which species it belonged to.” The mammals of Dormaal represent about fifty taxa, mostly small species such as rodents, opossums, and small ungulates.

Thierry himself switched careers from marine biology to palaeontology through studying the mammal fossils discovered by his father. He had grown up immersed in the field because Richard Smith chose family vacation destinations based on nearby excavation sites. “As a teenager, I eventually got a little tired of that,” Thierry laughs. In 2014, father and son, together with colleagues, described Dormaalocyon latouri, 'the dog from Dormaal’. “It is one of the earliest ancestors of today’s carnivore mammals. In other words, a primitive predator that lived long before carnivores split into the more dog-like lineages, such as wolves, bears, martens, and seals, and the more cat-like lineages, including cats, tigers, and lions.”

What did this ancestor of your barking Luna or purring Felix look like? Something like a marten. It weighed only half a kilogram to one kilogram. From the structure of its flexible ankle joint, Thierry and his colleagues concluded that Dormaalocyon lived in trees and probably moved through the forest canopy. Long canines were already present, characteristic of modern cats and dogs, and it may have been omnivorous. It certainly ate insects in order to have enough proteins, but it may also have preyed upon even smaller mammals.

brown tarsier on branch

Our most distant primate ancestor, Teilhardina, probably looked much like today's tarsiers. (Photo by Deb Dowd via Unsplash)

Our most distant primate ancestor, Teilhardina, probably looked much like today's tarsiers. (Photo by Deb Dowd via Unsplash)

One of those prey species may have been its contemporary and fellow tree-dweller, Teilhardina belgica. Teilhardina is a crucial discovery because it represents our most distant known primate ancestor. The species was first described in 1927 by the famous French Jesuit priest and palaeontologist Pierre Teilhard de Chardin. Teilhard de Chardin was something of a thorn in the Church’s side because he attempted to reconcile evolutionary theory with faith and morality. The Vatican eventually prohibited him from publishing or lecturing about some of his ideas.

He described this earliest primate ancestor from a few jaw fragments and isolated teeth, initially naming it Omomys belgicus, a species later renamed Teilhardina belgica. “After Teilhard de Chardin, around three hundred additional fossils of the little primate were excavated, including limb bones, giving us a much clearer idea of what our distant primate ancestor looked like,” says Thierry. “It most closely resembled the modern tarsier or mouse lemur: extremely small, with large eyes, excellent grasping hands and feet, long fingers, flexible elbows, and a powerful leap.”

Primates possess several features that distinguish them from other mammals: forward-facing eyes with stereoscopic vision and depth perception, opposable thumbs and big toes, nails instead of claws on both hands and feet. “Every one of these traits is an adaptation for climbing trees more effectively.” The story of humanity, in a sense, begins among the branches of those subtropical forests of Dormaal.

A tiny jaw fragment of Teilhardina belgica. (Photo: Institute of Natural Sciences)

A tiny jaw fragment of Teilhardina belgica. (Photo: Institute of Natural Sciences)

Plesiadapis (left): the eyes are still positioned on the sides of the head, it lacks opposable thumbs and big toes, and it has claws. The primate Notharctus (right): forward-facing eyes, opposable thumbs and big toes, and nails. (Photo: Thierry Smith, Institute of Natural Sciences)

Plesiadapis (left): the eyes are still positioned on the sides of the head, it lacks opposable thumbs and big toes, and it has claws. The primate Notharctus (right): forward-facing eyes, opposable thumbs and big toes, and nails. (Photo: Thierry Smith, Institute of Natural Sciences)

Legs Become Flippers

Artistieke reconstructie van Peregocetus, een viervoetige walvisvoorouder, opgegraven in de Pisco-woestijn van Peru. (Illustratie: A. Gennari)

Artistieke reconstructie van Peregocetus, een viervoetige walvisvoorouder, opgegraven in de Pisco-woestijn van Peru. (Illustratie: A. Gennari)

Besides the carnivores and primates, the trees now also housed rodents, with continuously growing incisors, the ancestors of today’s mice, rats, squirrels, beavers, hamsters, guinea pigs, and porcupines.

Two other groups of mammals also flourished through the PETM hothouse world: the even-toed ungulates and the odd-toed ungulates. They did not walk on the soles but on the tips of their toes, whose nails had become hooves. Speed became their great advantage.

One of the most famous fossil sites for modern mammals with beautifully preserved skeletons is Messel, near Darmstadt in Germany. Around 47 million years ago, a crater lake patiently accumulated the fauna and flora that died in and around it. Because there was no oxygen at the bottom, animals were preserved with skin and fur, stomach contents, and even unborn young. In the 1980s, Belgium’s Institute of Natural Sciences participated in excavations there and displays remarkable specimens, including Eurohippus messelensis, an odd-toed ungulate about the size of a dog and an ancestor of modern horses. Over time, the middle of the original three toes became larger while the side toes became redundant. 

A 48-million-year-old fossil of a pregnant Eurohippus from the Messel Pit. Early horses still had several toes (small hooves) rather than a single hoof. (Sven Tränkner, Senckenberg Research Institute Frankfurt, Wikimedia Commons)

A 48-million-year-old fossil of a pregnant Eurohippus from the Messel Pit. Early horses still had several toes (small hooves) rather than a single hoof. (Sven Tränkner, Senckenberg Research Institute Frankfurt, Wikimedia Commons)

Excavations at the Messel Pit during the 1980s. (Photo: Hugo De Potter)

Excavations at the Messel Pit during the 1980s. (Photo: Hugo De Potter)

Within the even-toed ungulates, strangely enough, whales and dolphins would evolve. It is one of the best documented evolutionary transformations in the fossil record. Beginning around 50 million years ago, members of a group of dog-size, four-legged hoofed mammals gradually spent more time in riverine and shallow coastal waters. Their forelimbs slowly evolved into flippers, their tails assumed the main role in propulsion, and their nostrils migrated upward toward the top of the head. “Fossils of transitional forms such as Pakicetus, Ambulocetus, Basilosaurus, and many others show step by step how a walking mammal evolved into a fully marine whale,” says palaeontologist Olivier Lambert of the Institute of Natural Sciences. Over the past twenty years, Lambert has described many spectacular transitional species excavated from Peru’s Pisco Desert. In 2023, Perucetus colossus, 39 million years old, made headlines worldwide as a possible contender for the heaviest animal ever to have lived.

Paleontologist Olivier Lambert explains the four-legged whale ancestor Peregocetus pacificus, which he and his colleagues discovered and described. (Video: Stéphane Van Israël, Institute of Natural Sciences)

More than 36 million years ago, the whale lineage split into two major branches: the baleen whales (Mysticeti), which filter small prey from the water using keratinous plates (baleen), and the toothed whales (Odontoceti), which include dolphins and sperm whales and use echolocation (a highly sophisticated sonar system). One of Olivier Lambert’s most extraordinary finds from Peru is Livyatan melvillei, a gigantic predatory whale that lived about 10 million years ago and was closely related to the modern sperm whale. It possessed teeth up to 36 centimetres long.

Strange as it may seem, whales and dolphins evolved from within the even-toed ungulates

A Mattress of Sand and Clay

A quarry exposing the Boom Clay Formation in Rumst. (Photo: Jasper Verhaegen)

A quarry exposing the Boom Clay Formation in Rumst. (Photo: Jasper Verhaegen)

The fauna changed dramatically after the extinction of the dinosaurs, but how did the Belgian landscape evolve? For millions of years before the asteroid impact, algae known as coccolithophores deposited enormous quantities of chalk in the sea that covered almost all of present-day Belgium at the end of the Cretaceous. The thick chalk deposits, now largely buried beneath younger layers, are still visible in the chalk and marl quarries of Ciply, Kanne, and Maastricht, as well as in the white cliffs of Cap Blanc-Nez and Dover.

After the asteroid catastrophe, that immense chalk sea gave way to another sea. Mosasaurs and ammonites no longer swam in it, victims of the mass extinction, and calcareous algae became less dominant. It became, once again, a sea of sand and clay. No longer the clear blue waters of the Cretaceous, but the brown, murky sea we know today.

15 million years ago. During the Miocene, the Alpine mountain building was in full swing: the Alps, Carpathians and Apennines were rising, among other ranges, while the Tethys Ocean between Eurasia and Africa was closing. (C.R. Scotese and GPlates)

15 million years ago. During the Miocene, the Alpine mountain building was in full swing: the Alps, Carpathians and Apennines were rising, among other ranges, while the Tethys Ocean between Eurasia and Africa was closing. (C.R. Scotese and GPlates)

The proto-North Sea would flood Belgium repeatedly from the north for more than sixty million years, advancing and retreating in an endless cycle of marine transgressions and regressions. These fluctuations were driven by the uplift and subsidence of landmasses, episodes of global warming, and periods when ice caps expanded over the poles.

Whenever the sea advanced inland, rivers were drawn toward it. They carried sediments eroded from higher regions, particularly the Brabant Massif and the Ardennes. The heavier sand particles accumulated near river mouths and in shallow marine environments. Finer and lighter clay particles drifted into deeper waters. Together, sand and clay form the principal components of the upper layers of Belgian soils, the “mattress,” so to speak.

In southern Belgium, this mattress also contains much older geological layers, including the limestone deposits of the Devonian and Carboniferous periods that formed when the region lay in a tropical sea near the equator.

Toward the end of the last Ice Age, between about 20,000 and 15,000 years ago, a blanket of sand, sandy loam, and fine loess was spread over the landscape by the wind. Glaciers covering northern Europe had ground rock into fine particles. These sediments were later blown southward. The heaviest grains, sand, travelled the shortest distances and accumulated in northern Flanders, forming the Sandy Region and the Campine. Loam travelled farther, creating the Sandy-Loam Region, while the lightest and most fertile material, loess, crossed the hills and settled in the rolling landscapes of central Belgium.

Sandy loam and loess are ideal agricultural soils, easier to cultivate than clay and more fertile than sand. They underpin the wheat fields of Hainaut, the historic onion cultivation around Aalst, the sugar beet fields of Tienen, and the orchards of Haspengouw.

Doggerland

Artist's impression of the mammoth steppe in what is now our region. (Illustration: Jean-Marc Hamblenne)

Artist's impression of the mammoth steppe in what is now our region. (Illustration: Jean-Marc Hamblenne)

Remember Teilhardina? From those lemur-like primates grew an enormously complex family tree that eventually produced monkeys, apes, and humans. Beginning a little over seven million years ago, many hominins appeared in Africa. Some walked partly upright, including famous australopithecines such as Lucy and the Taung Child. Walking upright made it easier to spot predators lurking in the tall grasses. Those predators included saber-toothed cats and hyenas, descendants of the early "Belgian" carnivore Dormaalocyon.

Human evolution resembles a complex branching bush, with many species living alongside one another at the same time. Within the genus Homo, Homo erectus gave rise to a form known as Homo heidelbergensis, although paleoanthropologists increasingly suspect that this name actually encompasses several different groups. Heidelbergensis spread from Africa into Eurasia and eastern Asia. From the Eurasian populations evolved the Neanderthals about 450,000 years ago, while the Asian populations produced the Denisovans. From the populations that remained in Africa emerged Homo sapiens around 300,000 years ago. We too left Africa, beginning about 70,000 years ago, and interbred with the human species we encountered along the way.

Neanderthals and sapiens would together witness the end of the Quaternary. During the Quaternary, or Ice Age, ice sheets expanded not only across Antarctica but also over northern Europe. The Ice Age was not a single long cold period. If one plots Quaternary surface temperatures, there are fifty-two cold phases, the glacials, interspersed with fifty-two warmer interglacials. Today we live in one of those interglacial periods.

During interglacials, hippopotamuses swam in Zeeland and forest elephants roamed landscapes that we would normally associate with Africa. During glacial periods, vast quantities of water became locked up in ice sheets and glaciers, causing sea levels to fall and exposing the floor of the North Sea. The landmass between Britain and northwestern Europe is known as Doggerland.

Our region was transformed into a treeless steppe dominated by herbs, crossed by large braided rivers flowing toward Doggerland. The landscape was inhabited by cold-adapted herds: woolly mammoths, woolly rhinoceroses, horses, and deer, including the famous giant deer, Megaloceros, with antlers spanning up to four meters.

1 million years ago. During the Pleistocene ice ages, ice sheets occasionally reached areas just north of present-day Belgium, while ‘Doggerland’ was exposed in the area now covered by the southern North Sea. (C.R. Scotese and GPlates)

1 million years ago. During the Pleistocene ice ages, ice sheets occasionally reached areas just north of present-day Belgium, while ‘Doggerland’ was exposed in the area now covered by the southern North Sea. (C.R. Scotese and GPlates)

The fifth Planet Belgium poster: an artist’s reconstruction of Ostend 35,000 years ago. The North Sea Plain is occupied by Doggerland, crossed by the Thames and Rhine rivers as they flow in braided patterns towards the Channel and the Atlantic Ocean. (Illustration: Vinciane Decamps)

The fifth Planet Belgium poster: an artist’s reconstruction of Ostend 35,000 years ago. The North Sea Plain is occupied by Doggerland, crossed by the Thames and Rhine rivers as they flow in braided patterns towards the Channel and the Atlantic Ocean. (Illustration: Vinciane Decamps)

Neandertals Within Us

Paleoanthropologist Patrick Semal with the two Neanderthal skulls from Spy Cave. Their discovery in 1886 helped dispel skepticism about the existence of other human species. The two individuals were (most likely) buried 40,000 years ago and represent one of the last Neanderthal populations. (Photo: Reinout Verbeke, Institute of Natural Sciences)

Paleoanthropologist Patrick Semal with the two Neanderthal skulls from Spy Cave. Their discovery in 1886 helped dispel skepticism about the existence of other human species. The two individuals were (most likely) buried 40,000 years ago and represent one of the last Neanderthal populations. (Photo: Reinout Verbeke, Institute of Natural Sciences)

They were hunted by humans. Neanderthals are the earliest human species for which we have clear evidence in our regions. The English-Irish geologist William King described Homo neanderthalensis in 1864 based on a skeleton discovered eight years earlier by quarry workers in the Neander Valley near Düsseldorf.

Belgian caves along the Meuse River have also yielded iconic discoveries, and scientifically even more important ones. The very first Neanderthal ever found, the skull of a child, had already been discovered in 1829 in a cave at Engis, near Liège. Unfortunately for Belgium, it was only recognized as Neanderthal more than a century later. A world first missed.

The discovery of a jawbone in the cave of La Naulette in 1866, and especially two partial skeletons in the caves of Spy in 1886, helped confirm King's conclusions and Darwin's theory of evolution and dispelled doubts about the existence of human species other than our own. Other significant finds include the jaw and teeth of the eight-year-old "Child of Sclayn" from the Scladina Cave, only a short distance from the caves of Goyet.

The Goyet Caves. (Photo: Reinout Verbeke, Institute of Natural Sciences)

The Goyet Caves. (Photo: Reinout Verbeke, Institute of Natural Sciences)

The Goyet caves had already been thoroughly excavated in the 1860s, though by modern standards not very delicately, by the team of geologist Édouard Dupont. In one of the countless drawers containing finds lay a skull that, according to a study published in 2009 by palaeontologist Mietje Germonpré (Institute of Natural Sciences), belonged to the world's earliest known dog. Thirty-six thousand years ago, modern humans had already domesticated a wolf, the first known experiment in animal domestication. The "Goyet Dog", however, did not give rise to modern dogs.

The Goyet Dog, the oldest known dog in the world and the earliest evidence of animal domestication. (Photo: Institute of Natural Sciences)

The Goyet Dog, the oldest known dog in the world and the earliest evidence of animal domestication. (Photo: Institute of Natural Sciences)

In another drawer containing bones labelled simply as "fauna," researchers working between 2013 and 2015 identified Neanderthal remains. "The 99 bones belong to six individuals: four adults, one child, and one infant," says Patrick Semal, paleoanthropologist and curator at the Institute of Natural Sciences. "And very remarkably, they show evidence of cannibalism. The bones were cut for meat and broken open for marrow. Recent genetic research revealed that the adult victims were women and that they were not related to one another. Analysis of sulfur isotopes in the bones also shows that they did not originate from the region around Goyet. They were probably brought there from different locations. They were also small, slender women, no taller than about 1.5 meters." It sounds like the plot of a grim prehistoric detective story. "Perhaps the cannibalism was driven by rivalry and competition between Neanderthal groups."

Neanderthals had a few distinctive anatomical features, such as a thicker, continuous brow ridge and a face that projected slightly more forward, but they looked very much like us. (3D reconstruction: Claude Desmedt, Institute of Natural Sciences.)

Neanderthals had a few distinctive anatomical features, such as a thicker, continuous brow ridge and a face that projected slightly more forward, but they looked very much like us. (3D reconstruction: Claude Desmedt, Institute of Natural Sciences.)

From our caves at Goyet: bones of Neanderthal women bearing traces of cannibalism. The bones were broken open to extract the nutritious marrow (left) and were also used to sharpen flint tools (right). (Photo: Institute of Natural Sciences)

From our caves at Goyet: bones of Neanderthal women bearing traces of cannibalism. The bones were broken open to extract the nutritious marrow (left) and were also used to sharpen flint tools (right). (Photo: Institute of Natural Sciences)

The Neanderthals of Goyet and Spy are approximately 45,000 and 40,000 years old and belong among the last Neanderthals of Europe. A genetic study showed that these final populations in Belgium and France were well connected to one another and remained genetically diverse. They therefore do not appear to have disappeared because of inbreeding, at least not in our regions.

So why did this human species vanish? The answer remains uncertain. A frequently proposed idea is that we absorbed the other species out of existence. Anatomically modern humans, Homo sapiens, had already arrived on the European continent around 47,000 years ago. As they gradually expanded northward, they coexisted and competed with Neanderthals for roughly five hundred generations. They also had children together.

As Neanderthal populations dwindled, they may gradually have been incorporated into the growing populations of modern humans. Neanderthals therefore disappeared physically, but not genetically. People today with European or Asian ancestry still carry between one and three percent Neanderthal DNA. Genes inherited from Neanderthals are thought to influence the immune system and metabolism.

Researchers continue searching for new puzzle pieces left behind by prehistoric humans in our regions, but after the major excavation campaigns of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, new sites have become increasingly rare.

Excavations are still underway at Trou Al'Wesse, a relatively small cave in Modave, near Liège. Archaeologist Damien Flas of the University of Liège guides me through the site. "We've reached layers dating to the time of the Neanderthals, around 50,000 years ago. So far we haven't found human bones there, but we have discovered flint tools, animal bones bearing butchery marks, and, by passing sediment samples through DNA sequencing analyses, we have identified Neanderthal DNA."

One of the few archaeological sites from the Late Paleolithic that is still being actively excavated today, Trou Al'Wesse in Modave. Everything, absolutely everything, is collected and documented. A stark contrast to archaeological excavations in the nineteenth century. (Photo: Siska Van Parys, Institute of Natural Sciences)

One of the few archaeological sites from the Late Paleolithic that is still being actively excavated today, Trou Al'Wesse in Modave. Everything, absolutely everything, is collected and documented. A stark contrast to archaeological excavations in the nineteenth century. (Photo: Siska Van Parys, Institute of Natural Sciences)

The site is particularly important because above the Neanderthal layer researchers found evidence of the first modern humans in our region, dating to around 40,000 years ago. "We found flint tools, spear points made of reindeer bone, mammoth-ivory beads, engraved objects, artifacts bearing traces of ochre, burned bones, and bones with cut marks. These finds allow us to reconstruct how they lived, hunted, and what they ate. The cave was clearly not a brief pit stop for a few hunter-gatherers who needed to sharpen their weapons. They stayed here for a significant period."

Both Neanderthals and sapiens knew very well where to obtain raw materials such as flint. "They were essentially geologists," Damien laughs. "Their geological knowledge of the surrounding landscape helped them settle here and survive all those harsh periods during the last Ice Age."

Yet something must have given Homo sapiens the edge: better tools, better communication, better care for newborns, or perhaps something else entirely. Whatever that advantage was, we owe our existence to it.

From Teilhardina to Antwerp's whale graveyard and the Neanderthals, these discoveries once again demonstrate how many different fossil-rich geological layers have been preserved in Belgium. The subsurface of our tiny country is an eldorado.

Groeve van de Boomse klei in Rumst. (Foto: Jasper Verhaegen)

Groeve van de Boomse klei in Rumst. (Foto: Jasper Verhaegen)

In Focus

Brick in the Stomach

When Teilhardina and its companions were climbing through the subtropical forests of Dormaal, from 56 million years ago onward, the North Sea reached almost as far as Brussels. It stretched from the Paris Basin in France, across England and the western part of present-day Belgium, into the Netherlands and Germany. In West Flanders and southern East Flanders, the sea was deep, reaching about a hundred metres, making it ideal for the accumulation of clay. Combined with the right amount of loam, this rich clay was fired for centuries in ring kilns to produce bricks and roof tiles. And with today's unabated construction boom, it still is. The hundreds of small brickworks of the past have given way to a handful of large companies that produce around one billion bricks each year.

This vast clay deposit in the west, known as the Ypres Group, gave its name to an internationally recognized geological age: the Ypresian, which spans from 56 to 48 million years ago. The same is true of the other major clay deposit, the Boom Clay, after which the Rupelian stage was named. This clay is about twenty million years younger and was deposited in a similar deep marine environment, albeit somewhat farther east. Creatures such as sea cows swam in those waters. By then, however, the world had become an icehouse, with a long-lasting ice sheet covering Antarctica. The Rupelian lasted from 34 to 28 million years ago.

Because clay deposits are more resistant to erosion, they later gave rise to a number of ridges, or cuestas. If you drive uphill from Mechelen to Antwerp, or from Waasmunster to Rupelmonde, you are climbing one of these ridges formed by the Boom Clay. Clay In xtraction along these ridges for brick production has left behind numerous clay pits, of which De Schorre in Boom is the best known.

The last artisanal brickworks, Hove in Ninove. (Photo: Leo Van Vreckem, Wikimedia Commons)

The last artisanal brickworks, Hove in Ninove. (Photo: Leo Van Vreckem, Wikimedia Commons)

Groeve van de Boomse klei in Rumst. (Foto: Jasper Verhaegen)

Groeve van de Boomse klei in Rumst. (Foto: Jasper Verhaegen)

Stadhuis Leuven in Gobertangesteen, een bleke kalkzandsteen, gevormd toen de zee zo'n 50 miljoen jaar geleden tot over Brussel kwam. (Foto: Wikimedia Commons)

Stadhuis Leuven in Gobertangesteen, een bleke kalkzandsteen, gevormd toen de zee zo'n 50 miljoen jaar geleden tot over Brussel kwam. (Foto: Wikimedia Commons)

In Focus

Beautiful Pale-Coloured Buildings

To find out what lies beneath the ground, look at the buildings. People traditionally built with whatever materials they could quarry locally. While churches and town halls in West Flanders are mostly made of brick, those between roughly Zottegem and Sint-Truiden are often constructed from a striking white sandstone rich in lime.

During the middle Eocene, about 45 million years ago, this region lay along a shallow, turbulent North Sea coastline, criss-crossed by tidal channels where sand mixed with the calcareous remains of marine organisms. When sand is cemented together by lime and remains buried for millions of years, it forms relatively thin but hard layers of stone.

This beige to white rock was used to build, among others, the cathedrals of Antwerp and Ghent, as well as the town halls of Brussels and Leuven. Brussels stone, Gobertange stone, Lede stone, and Balegem stone are all variations on the same theme: sandstone bound together with lime.

How can they be distinguished? Lede stone readily reveals fossils, including gastropod shells, worm tubes, oyster shells, and nummulites, microscopic single-celled organisms with calcareous shells. Gobertange stone, by contrast, is characterized by rounded to oval markings, which are fossil burrows left by crustacean-like animals.

Today, only one active quarry for Lede stone remains, at Balegem, and only one active quarry for Gobertange stone, at Jodoigne.

These rocks date from the last subtropical period in our region. From then on, the climate gradually became more temperate.

Lede Stone. (Photo: Institute of Natural Sciences)

Lede Stone. (Photo: Institute of Natural Sciences)

Stadhuis Leuven in Gobertangesteen, een bleke kalkzandsteen, gevormd toen de zee zo'n 50 miljoen jaar geleden tot over Brussel kwam. (Foto: Wikimedia Commons)

Stadhuis Leuven in Gobertangesteen, een bleke kalkzandsteen, gevormd toen de zee zo'n 50 miljoen jaar geleden tot over Brussel kwam. (Foto: Wikimedia Commons)

Zwitserse Alpen. (Foto: Tom Knox, Wikimedia Commons)

Zwitserse Alpen. (Foto: Tom Knox, Wikimedia Commons)

In Focus

Alpine Mountain Building

On a broader geological scale, the Cenozoic Era, the period following the extinction of the dinosaurs, witnessed the peak of a new major phase of mountain building: the Alpine orogeny, the last of three great mountain-building episodes over the past 500 million years. Following the Caledonian and Variscan orogenies, the Alpine orogeny is the most recent and remains ongoing today.

It is a complex story, but at its core, it results from the collision of southern tectonic plates, including the Iberian, Adriatic, African, Arabian, and Indian plates, with the northern Eurasian Plate. These collisions gave rise to mountain ranges such as the Pyrenees, the Alps, the Zagros Mountains, and the Himalayas. In the case of the Himalayas, India crashed into Asia after an extraordinary journey northward from a position once connected to southeastern Africa and Antarctica.

The Alpine orogeny progressively closed the long, narrow Tethys Ocean that once separated Europe from Africa. Today, only remnants of that ancient sea survive in the form of the Mediterranean Sea, the Black Sea, and the Caspian Sea. Yet tectonic plates continue to move, and in the distant future the Mediterranean itself will likely close completely.

The southern tectonic plates converging with the Eurasian Plate. (Map: Woudloper, Wikimedia Commons)

The southern tectonic plates converging with the Eurasian Plate. (Map: Woudloper, Wikimedia Commons)

Zwitserse Alpen. (Foto: Tom Knox, Wikimedia Commons)

Zwitserse Alpen. (Foto: Tom Knox, Wikimedia Commons)

In Focus

The Antwerp Whale and Shark Cemetery

We largely remained above sea level thanks to the uplift associated with the Alps, whose geological effects echo all the way to Belgium, and because the growth of Antarctic ice sheets lowered global sea levels. The North Sea never again reached as far south as it had during the periods when the Ypres and Boom clays were deposited and thereafter remained mostly in the northern and eastern parts of the country.

The North Sea of the Neogene, beginning 23 million years ago, could still easily spread across Antwerp and Limburg. Belgium then bordered a calm and shallow sea. The fauna that thrived in it is remarkably well known thanks to numerous excavations in and around Antwerp, and particularly thanks to Pierre-Joseph Van Beneden, a distinguished zoologist at the University of Leuven. Incidentally, he was also the first person to identify, in 1878, the fossil bones from the Bernissart coal mine as belonging to Iguanodon, and therefore sought recognition as the discoverer of that world-famous find.

Van Beneden was also the first marine scientist to describe the fauna of the North Sea. He carried out this work at his small research station, the Laboratoire des Dunes, located in his in-laws' oyster farm in Ostend. Later he devoted much of his attention to living and fossil whales. As a soldier during the Belgian Revolution of 1830, and later as a student, he had already begun excavating whale bones near Antwerp. When construction of the city's ring of fortifications began in 1859, workers regularly sent fossil remains to Van Beneden. He arranged for them to be stored in the collections of the natural history museum in Brussels. Van Beneden published more than fifty scientific studies on fossil whales and seals. Even today, construction projects in and around Antwerp frequently uncover marine mammal skeletons. The finds provide insights into the more recent evolution of these marine mammals and into the ancient ecosystem of the North Sea. ‘There was an astonishing diversity’, says Olivier Lambert. ‘Extinct relatives of modern sperm whales, porpoises, beaked whales, rorquals, right whales, seals, walruses, and even manatees, but also members of extinct families, including long-snouted dolphins and tiny baleen whales.’

The sands of Antwerp also yield shark teeth in abundance. One shark in particular is eagerly sought by fossil enthusiasts: Otodus megalodon, the largest shark that ever lived, which swam in our waters until at least 3.6 million years ago. Megalodon inspired the 2018 Hollywood blockbuster The Meg. Because a shark's skeleton is made of cartilage and fossilizes poorly, only teeth are usually preserved. Yet during construction of Antwerp's fortifications in the nineteenth century, an exceptional discovery was made: a large portion of a megalodon vertebral column. It consisted of 151 vertebrae, making it the best-preserved megalodon spine known anywhere in the world. From this fossil, palaeontologists concluded that the animal had been around 16 meters long and approximately 46 years old.

The sharks were not lingering around Antwerp by chance. The area served as a nursery ground for female whales that migrated from colder northern waters to warmer regions. Whale calves must have been a particularly tempting snack for Megalodon.

Historic mount of the best-preserved megalodon skeleton in the world. Excavated in Antwerp in the nineteenth century, it includes 151 preserved vertebrae. The teeth come from several different individuals. (Photo: Institute of Natural Sciences)

Historic mount of the best-preserved megalodon skeleton in the world. Excavated in Antwerp in the nineteenth century, it includes 151 preserved vertebrae. The teeth come from several different individuals. (Photo: Institute of Natural Sciences)

But fascinating information is also hidden in much smaller fossils from Antwerp's sands. Researchers analyzed oyster and cockle shells that lived in the North Sea three million years ago during the Pliocene, a climate that resembles the conditions toward which current global warming may be heading by the year 2100: roughly 2.5 to 3 degrees Celsius warmer than the pre-industrial era.

From the chemical composition of the shell carbonate, scientists concluded that summers in that warmer climate were much hotter than winters. "A shell from three million years ago is warning us about more heat waves and more heat-related deaths in the future," says Stijn Goolaerts of the Institute of Natural Sciences, who participated in the study.

This intense warming at the end of the Pliocene was the final warming spike before the onset of the Ice Age, the Quaternary. It was during this period that, after sixty million years of advancing and retreating, the North Sea finally left Flanders for good. At least, that is what we hope.

One of the 3-million-year-old fossil shells used to reconstruct the climate of that period. (Photo: Doris Smudde)

One of the 3-million-year-old fossil shells used to reconstruct the climate of that period. (Photo: Doris Smudde)

The Institute of Natural Sciences is reconstructing the wanderings of the patch of land we know today as Belgium: from the South Pole to the place where we're located today. A series on our country's unique geology in five longreads, five podcast episodes (in Dutch) and five posters.

Discover all episodes on
www.naturalsciences.be/r/planetbelgium

With support from the Wernaers Fund of FNRS.

A heartfelt thanks to, among others:

  • Geologist Kris Piessens (Institute of Natural Sciences) for inspiration and guidance
  • Geologists Jasper Verhaegen (author of De geschiedenis van onze grond) and Kathelijne Bonne (check out her blog GondwanaTalks) for reviewing.
  • Sound designer Joris Van Damme and musician Bart Couvreur for the podcast
  • Illustrator Vinciane Decamps (Vinch Atelier) for the posters
  • Videomaker Stijn Pardon (Institute of Natural Sciences) for the trailer
  • Jerom Gerard for researc
  • All those who led me through deep time while making this series